Because of iffy weather, along with restrictive flight and ferry schedules, our climbing days were rather limited. But these apparently comprised the majority of the opportunities afforded to Kiley and Maxey over their three weeks on the island. The few climbs we managed were quite enjoyable and set in beautiful locales, though the main draw for Crete resembles that of Puerto Rico – driving narrow, twisty roads through the mountains, stumbling upon random ruins and natural wonders, and stopping for bakeries, taverns, and gyro shops about seven times a day.


Weather

This was decidedly low-season for the island: the ferries were empty, the bars were largely quiet, and many beach towns felt entirely abandoned. Traffic was still quite bad in the cities and along the major highways, so it’s scary to imagine how the summer might look. The temperatures never got that low, but plenty of rain and strong winds meant it was easy to get chilled in a hurry. But most of the weather for my four short days on the island was rather splendid – we only had one afternoon where we opted to shelter in museums and board game bars.


Food

Most of our calories likely came from spanakopita and similar pies at our frequent bakery stops. These always cost between 2 and 3 euros and were just about meal-sized. The accompanying cappuccino doppio might cost 2-2.50. The next step up were the gyro shops that sell pitas packed with meat (or falafel) and fries for around 4.50. But whenever we tired of fried potatoes, we would stop at a tavern where we could order a collection of stews, cheeses, and creamy vegetables, to be shared family-style. Typically, ordering half a liter of wine would entitle us to a collection of random side dishes. And every restauranteur would inevitably chase us as we tried to leave, so as to deliver free deserts and multiple rounds of raki shots. This whole experience would come in around 12 euros per person.


Lodging and Car Rental

Kiley found us lovely AirBnb apartments that cost around 10 euros per person and always came with a panini press. Car rentals (with stick shifts) cost 7 euros a day – given the price, Bevin and I had considered getting a second car, but were quite happy we hadn’t after we witnessed the technical difficulty of navigating the climber access roads and city parking. Gas typically ran around 1.70 per liter.


Ferries

There are a couple ferries that leave from Athens, Heraklion, and Chania each night at 9 and 10pm, cost around $50, and arrive at 6 in the morning. You can pay $30 for a bunk in a room, or show up early to grab a couch in the lounge. This time of year, it seems like you can freely lay claim to one of a few hundred open seats that are otherwise reservable for $5-10. I didn’t succeed in sleeping in either direction, but it seems theoretically possible to get a solid eight hours. Flights are the same price, but have slightly restrictive luggage rules that probably wouldn’t accommodate the frame of a hiking pack. And Athens’ airport is an hour further out than its port.