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The Kom-Emine Trail forms the Bulgarian portion of the Trans-European E3 route and follows a nearly uninterrupted ridgeline for around 400 miles. Well appointed mountain huts punctuate the route such that you can find warm beds, delicious food, and wifi, every night of the hike, with no reservations required.

I quit on day 7 because of the dearth of opportunities for awkward interactions with locals and getting lost in strange cities. Also, I ran out of money. But if you were looking for a tranquil wilderness experience, replete with spectacular scenery, resplendent wildflowers, and unusually vocal deer - and you have at least 800 lev in your pocket - then this could very well be the hike for you!

The Huts
These are typically 3-story buildings on remote mountain sides that host a hundred dorm beds, restaurants, bars, clean sheets, and hot showers. They’re exactly the sort of place you’d want to recharge after a full day in the alpine. And the cost for bed, three meals, and post-hike beer consistently came in below $25/day.

The Crowds
In the course of my 7 days of walking, I saw two day-hikers on the trail and two weekend warriors sleeping at one of the huts. I also encountered one old man that considerately tied his wild-eyed bull to a tree so it wouldn’t charge me as I passed. I’m told it gets busier later in June due to prevailing weather patterns

The Weather
Almost perfect! It was never cold enough to warrant a jacket and never uncomfortably warm. And there was zero rain, both on the hike and forecast for the 10 days to follow. Since much of the hike stays atop a ridge, you do get quite a bit of sun.

The Fauna
I saw a chamois my first day, as well as various unidentifiable mammalian blurs scurrying hurriedly away. Several barking deer convinced me that I had run across aggressive dogs, but for once, no sheep dogs pursued me. There were plenty of obstructing cattle. The horses were more skittish.

Resupply
I failed to read the fine print explaining that you don’t pass through your first town until day 14. While the huts feed you plenty, it’s hard to imagine a hike without regular snacking. And though it’d be hard to find a cheaper European trip, you still need a rather large wad of cash to make it through those two weeks sans ATMs.

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The E-4! It starts on the south side of Sofia and is a bit shorter at 155 miles. I’m told it has more frequent huts, more challenging terrain, and more dramatic scenery.

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